Thursday, October 31, 2013

China stories- inserted after the fact... Oct 21 and 18!



 October 21, 2013
Dear Friends and Family,  Catch up! Now that we are home, here are inserts! Sorry!
We are still in China, without access to our Blog page, as per Government edict for no Facebook, blogs, etc. 

Arriving in Guilin by a short flight from Shangri La to Kunming and another short flight to our destination, we were met by our guide, Lilly (really Li Li- beautiful river) for another adventure. We were met by moonlight and startling rising karsts out of nowhere surrounding us as we made our way into the city lights and bustle. Trees, rivers, and waterways twisted all about.  Guilin was where we, with the masses, visited caves (as only the Chinese can do, there was a sound and light show about the history of the world told through mythical creatures that roared loudly... all projected on the ceiling of the cave's largest room) and karsts, temples and footpaths up hillsides. By night, we treated our feet to nibbling fish, drank strong dark German beer in an Irish Pub, ate Chinese “delectables” and “indecipherables” along the way, listened to battles of live music, and danced in the streets to everyone’s surprise and applause. 

Our boat trip down the Li River between Guilin and Yangshuo was unforgettable. The karst hills are just as beautiful and amazing as the master Chinese artists have depicted them on the scrolls we've seen in museums. These limestone mountains reach for the sky straight up from the river valley in nearly vertical rounded high mounds mostly covered with vegetation and often having large caves within.  While we four thoroughly enjoyed the scenery, some Chinese tourists aboard the river boat were primarily along for the delicious lunch (like swarming bees), the card games, and the opportunity to gaze into their I-phones. They also loved taking snapshots of each other and of the 4 peculiar Americans.  We, too, were picture snappers as we “oohed and ahhed” at every turn in the river and will be able to put anyone to sleep who shows the least bit of interest in viewing our photos.
 
Once in Yangshuo, we spent an evening amongst throngs of tourists, most but not all of whom are Chinese.  We ate street food before heading off to a spectacular show called "Impression Liu Sanjie."  Zhang Yimao ( think opening and closing  2008 Olympic ceremonies) produced a show that takes place with a backdrop of 6 karst moonlit mountains and a lake with bamboo fishing rafts as the stage. With most incredible light and sound effects, the 600 performers tell, sing, and dance the legend about Liu Sanjie. Telling about it does not do justice to what we saw and will never forget.

We biked, for a day, along the River, once more admiring the karst formations, eating local food such as beer fish at an outdoor restaurant in a farming village, and stopping along the way to see a 1500 year old banyan tree that had a monstrous trunk and many enormous branches. Like the hordes of tourists, we floated on the river aboard a traditional bamboo fishing raft, relaxing as we were poled along (think simplified/fishing Venetian gondola).

Now off to Guangchou- more south and east…heading closer to all of you.  We would love to hear about you… so send us news via email.

Love,
Carolyn, Joanie, Larry, and Bob


October 18, 2013

Hello Family and Friends,
> Sorry, no blog access in China to the www.joanholcombe.blogspot.com, along with Facebook! So here is an email for a few  if you so wish! Seems that China is afraid of Facebook and Blogs... we are clearly suspect of overthrowing the government here! So, if you are so inclined, here is our latest blog by email. Please ignore if you are not following our treks.
>
> We have come to China, with wonderful food, new challenges, and a
> whole different existence here than in Nepal. Clear signs of hughly
> strong economy, the roads, cities, clothes, hotels, food, and
> everything else is of a very different world.
> Kunming our first stop - brief- to fly to Li Jiang- a lovely restored
> old town with good tourist fun. Very few caucasions to be seen....
> Then off to ShangriLa, a town showing signs of the Chinese trying to
> make Tibet the new tourist destination with a ways to go. We fear the
> changes will erode the culture for ever, but "progress" will give
> wealth to many farmers and nomads. Hmmmm.
> Shangri'La is an astounding mix of a traditional way of life and an up
> and coming China. Surrounded by mountains, it's located on a high
> plateau.
>
> The new part of the city is under construction, supported by the
> government and built government style with miles of huge high rise
> buildings with an architectural nod to Tibet. Mostly, the buildings
> are a lot of uninviting concrete edifices that are built to house
> nomads, the thousands of people expected to move here, a large
> military,  educational institutions, hospitals and all kinds of
> businesses. In every corner there is construction. Many buildings are
> empty and most are still being built. There is not yet one ounce of
> charm.The old town is something quite different with its Tibetan
> flavor, small streets, incredible Dali Lama (No. 4- 1600s) monestary
> designed to replicate the Llasa one, charming architecture and
> interesting restaurants and shops.
>
> Between the two there are yaks grazing, pigs rutting, horses galloping
> and cows striped in white and black. People are in the midst of
> blending their traditional farm life with a new suburban life style.
> Some folks go to the office while others climb aboard their carts and
> head for the fields. We are staying with a family that cooks both on
> an open wood fueled fire pit and on a gas stove. They have pigs and
> chickens in their barn and a computer in their home office. They speak
> Tibetan/Chinese and watch cartoons and soaps on a big screen t.v.
> They live in a household of four generations with each successive
> generation reaching toward more modern expectations with an eye toward
> the future and their back to the past.
>
> We are here to see the important efforts of our cousin Arthur Holcombe
> for Tibetan Poverty Alleviation Foundation: teaching people the
> craftsf their cultures  and business for sustainability- an amazing
> challenge indeed.     His crew have treated us royally to Tibetan
> culture, hospitality, and delectable eats.
> We got to stay in a homestay of one of the now-wealthy farmers, lost
> a bit in the translation!We had a wonderful trek into the mountains to
> 13000 feet to find yaks , views, and fall colors-reminding us of home.
>
> Now, we leave for points south east- Guilin and Yangshuo and the Li
> River. We got our first sight of Karsts last night and then lots
> today. We explored caves, climbed karsts to pagodas, and walked
> gardens until our feet were tired. So much to tell. Till next time!
>
> Love Carolyn (Carrie), Joanie, Larry, and Bob
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Sunday, October 27, 2013

Last Stop... Hong Kong and surrounding islands

Dear Family and Friends,

We arrived here Friday (your Thursday) where the two couples (J-B and C-L) waved good-bye at the train station at Kowloon just across the bay from Hong Kong island, with different sleeping plans for the next two days. C and L headed for Central City (Wan Choi, to be exact)  and J and B for Bob's friends'  Jonathan and Louisa, apartment on the Lantau Island.This is our transition place, a blend of  Asian and Western ways.

Honk Kong is amazing- lights, tall buildings, glorious food and enough shopping for the crazed!. Together and apart, we found many different aspects of this sea of islands and cultures and possibilities.
 Bob and Joanie, are staying   in a 60 floor (tiny) high rise apartment... yikes... viewing one of the many harbors. Yesterday, they biked on this island for seven hours in remote spaces- no cars or houses for long distances and steep hills . Who knew, so close to Hong Kong!?? Carolyn and Larry culture-vultured in museums , concert halls, and outdoor light shows.  Saturday and Sunday, we joined  together for city going; We explored markets,  many ferry rides, escalators, tram ride up Victoria Peak and hiked down, explored parks, antique shops, mushroom-seaweed -fungus markets, and so much more. This is a city of lights and waterways and colliding images from all of Southeast Asia and around the  world.

Now, we come home. See you all soon. Our 24 hours of travel will cross many time zones and worlds.
Forgive us if we don't speak the language!
Love, The Bob-a-Longs!  J, C, L, J

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Big City… China-style!

October 24, 2013

Dear Family and Friends,
Big City…  China-style!
Guangzhou in the Canton Province - our Canton Ave connection-Carolyn’s home turf- a city of modern mixed with old world. Narrow alleys are littered with markets selling strange fish, flowers, herbs, trinkets, meat cuts of all sizes and shapes, and stool-sitting, miniscule lunch dives. From one to the other, we would cross over bridges with glorious blooms \to the wide tree-lined avenues clogged with traffic. Tall ultra-glass skyscrapers and high-heeled “fashionettes” grabbed our attention.  We made our way around the city via the sparkling new efficient metro, experiencing both worlds: old tombs, temples, parks, and art in addition to markets, rivers. We frequented a variety of restaurants where we braved all kinds of mystery dishes. In the early morning, the city teems with people of all ages, busy at group dancing, tai chi, and singing in the parks. By mid day, the throng commute to work, shop, and construct new buildings, roads, parks, sport centers, and more. The new is replacing the old at a world-wind pace. In spite of all prior conceptions, the sky is actually blue here, unlike other burgeoning cities of the north.

We are most pleasantly surprised by the curious stares and friendly gestures of the local folks, as we struggle with our maps and non-existent language skills. Charades have never been so useful! We laugh along with the Chinese at our continuous confusion. Occasionally someone runs in panic rather than confront our overwhelming questions- the four of us are left standing perplexed in our tracks. We have often enjoyed their outgoing spontaneity, humor and social nature.

We are now back on the road… in fact, we are sitting in the train station, waiting for the noon train to pull up, to go to Hong Kong. We are looking forward to our last adventure. This will be posted on blogspot as well where last few adventures will be posted.
Love to all,
The Bob-A-Longs
(J, C, L, B)

Friday, October 11, 2013

Annapurna trekking and life in the mountains!

October 11, 2013
Dear Friends and Family
Wow... three days of waiting in the airport for the clouds to part and let us fly to the Everest Region, was in vain. We actually took the flight to Lukla, but had to turn back at the last moment, as the clouds  closed us out. We decided to reroute and head for Annapurna the next morning. While disappointed, we were eager to make lemonade and embrace our next adventure.

The travel by car to Pokora- (a city 200 miles west of Kathmandu where we launch) was harrowing and sweat-ridden for seven nail-biting hours. The two-lane windy, steep, and traffic-jarring road (the largest east-west road of Nepal) is usurped by all ( buses, jeeps, old jalopies, goats, farmers, dogs, and all the rest of civilization) as their own private way. Constant honking, yelling, and "urging" was the norm with near disasters at every moment, it seemed.  Thank the gods (Hindu, Buddhist, etc.) for our safe arrival! We got there unscathed, where the lakeside was inviting and the Annapurna mountain range in the distance was spectacular, We decided an late afternoon bike ride was a good way to explore the city before our early  morning departure to our trekking trail head. Our 4 scavenged sets of questionable wheels wobbled us down bumpy roads through city streets and neighborhoods, finding delightful people to chat with along the way. Larry's bike decided to sever in half, followed by a taxi ride home on his own. Bob's flat tire needed air along the way as  we wove our way back to our abode for a last night of town life.

The trekking into the Annapurna region led us up thousands of stone steps to our 11,000 foot perch where we had glorious views of the range. While we were disappointed not to put our feet on snow and glacier, we were pleased to be in the mountains. Along the way, we were assaulted by thousands of goats (and herders ) heading down from the Mustang region to the markets for the Dossain Hindu holiday, donkeys carrying goods from village to village, farmers taking in the rice harvest, craft sellers hawking their wares, friendly trekkers from around the world, and welcome greetings  (Namastes)  from porters and guides up and down. Larry had knee problems, and had to succumb to horse ride up the second day and a slow trek down with a porter without us. We met him several days later- we were glad to be reunited! Our guide, Phurwa Sherpa and porter, Nima Sherpa (an ethnic group sharing the name) were good company and quite entertaining, with songs, tree climbing, and water fall leaping,  to keep us smiling. We were in good hands.




         



Now, back in Kathmandu for our last Nepalese night before heading for China, we scurry to do heaps of laundry, shave scratchy beards, and eat our last Dal Bat dinner, before heading to China. What a time it has been.
 Love,
Carolyn, Bob, Larry, and Joanie






Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Waiting for Godot... or monsoons to clear!

Wow! Three days waiting for weather to clear to get to the Everest area! May have to try another area as planes cannot fly. Kathmandu airport is not a lovely place to hang out! (see pics below of days in Kathmandu with our foursome.
Bob loving every moment!

Aesetics at Pashupati Nath temple watching us!

Which symbol do you go for?

Waiting endlessly in the airport for escape to Everest Region!

Our quiet neighborhood in Thamel, Kathmandu!

Temples abound.... we may get religion yet??

Our jewels being made on New Road market street.

Pictures of Koshidekha-Home and School


In our kurta Salwal dress
Our Shree Ram faculty on our last farewell
Rajman and Maya making brew at home

Maya carrying harvest and Ama (mother)

Our down town Koshidekha

Our valley below

Shree Ram Secondary School
Children help with harvest very day

Mothers get ready to dance for Teez



Ama helps to cook

Maya brings home water every day from local well

Making corn brew

Our local store
The corn harvest for the year


Our neighbor's front yard
The guys get a solid greeting upon arrival

Rajman under the tree

Our critters- water buffalo, goats, and rooster

Goods at our store

Sun Kosi river below with rice fields
So much to share and so many stories! But the good is in the people and the learning.

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Kathmandu and beyond!!!

Greetings Friends and Family,
We are a fousome! The men joined the women with a bit of fanfare- men greeted with flowers and traditional Nepali silk scarves (almost silk...) and lots of hugs. Our days here in this buzzing city have been full, with a health camp in Bhaktapur, lots of temple walks and street browsing.
Now we are in waiting for sufficiently good weather for our airplane to fly to the Everest region (one day in airport sprawled upon the floor and baggage with 500 of our closest friends ...we hope to get to the mountains tomorrow. Another day in the airport sprawled on the floor in the midst of luggage and a cast of hundreds of disappointed climbers and trekkers would be a drag.

Spent the unexpected extra evening at the holiest Hindu temple where monkeys, cows, holy men, praying women, hawkers and tourists mingled as funeral cremation pyres were lit and the dead were sent on to their next life. The city is chaotic with motorcycles, vehicles and people vying for space and creating gridlock. We are not sure there is space for one more person in this city. We are ready to breathe fresh air, walk in the mountains and hear the birds sing.

We are sorry for lack of pictures accompanying this blog- while we have over 1000 each... electricity and such have made it more of a challenge. Also the overload factor. We will get there! 
Love to all. J, C, L, and B