Thursday, October 31, 2013

China stories- inserted after the fact... Oct 21 and 18!



 October 21, 2013
Dear Friends and Family,  Catch up! Now that we are home, here are inserts! Sorry!
We are still in China, without access to our Blog page, as per Government edict for no Facebook, blogs, etc. 

Arriving in Guilin by a short flight from Shangri La to Kunming and another short flight to our destination, we were met by our guide, Lilly (really Li Li- beautiful river) for another adventure. We were met by moonlight and startling rising karsts out of nowhere surrounding us as we made our way into the city lights and bustle. Trees, rivers, and waterways twisted all about.  Guilin was where we, with the masses, visited caves (as only the Chinese can do, there was a sound and light show about the history of the world told through mythical creatures that roared loudly... all projected on the ceiling of the cave's largest room) and karsts, temples and footpaths up hillsides. By night, we treated our feet to nibbling fish, drank strong dark German beer in an Irish Pub, ate Chinese “delectables” and “indecipherables” along the way, listened to battles of live music, and danced in the streets to everyone’s surprise and applause. 

Our boat trip down the Li River between Guilin and Yangshuo was unforgettable. The karst hills are just as beautiful and amazing as the master Chinese artists have depicted them on the scrolls we've seen in museums. These limestone mountains reach for the sky straight up from the river valley in nearly vertical rounded high mounds mostly covered with vegetation and often having large caves within.  While we four thoroughly enjoyed the scenery, some Chinese tourists aboard the river boat were primarily along for the delicious lunch (like swarming bees), the card games, and the opportunity to gaze into their I-phones. They also loved taking snapshots of each other and of the 4 peculiar Americans.  We, too, were picture snappers as we “oohed and ahhed” at every turn in the river and will be able to put anyone to sleep who shows the least bit of interest in viewing our photos.
 
Once in Yangshuo, we spent an evening amongst throngs of tourists, most but not all of whom are Chinese.  We ate street food before heading off to a spectacular show called "Impression Liu Sanjie."  Zhang Yimao ( think opening and closing  2008 Olympic ceremonies) produced a show that takes place with a backdrop of 6 karst moonlit mountains and a lake with bamboo fishing rafts as the stage. With most incredible light and sound effects, the 600 performers tell, sing, and dance the legend about Liu Sanjie. Telling about it does not do justice to what we saw and will never forget.

We biked, for a day, along the River, once more admiring the karst formations, eating local food such as beer fish at an outdoor restaurant in a farming village, and stopping along the way to see a 1500 year old banyan tree that had a monstrous trunk and many enormous branches. Like the hordes of tourists, we floated on the river aboard a traditional bamboo fishing raft, relaxing as we were poled along (think simplified/fishing Venetian gondola).

Now off to Guangchou- more south and east…heading closer to all of you.  We would love to hear about you… so send us news via email.

Love,
Carolyn, Joanie, Larry, and Bob


October 18, 2013

Hello Family and Friends,
> Sorry, no blog access in China to the www.joanholcombe.blogspot.com, along with Facebook! So here is an email for a few  if you so wish! Seems that China is afraid of Facebook and Blogs... we are clearly suspect of overthrowing the government here! So, if you are so inclined, here is our latest blog by email. Please ignore if you are not following our treks.
>
> We have come to China, with wonderful food, new challenges, and a
> whole different existence here than in Nepal. Clear signs of hughly
> strong economy, the roads, cities, clothes, hotels, food, and
> everything else is of a very different world.
> Kunming our first stop - brief- to fly to Li Jiang- a lovely restored
> old town with good tourist fun. Very few caucasions to be seen....
> Then off to ShangriLa, a town showing signs of the Chinese trying to
> make Tibet the new tourist destination with a ways to go. We fear the
> changes will erode the culture for ever, but "progress" will give
> wealth to many farmers and nomads. Hmmmm.
> Shangri'La is an astounding mix of a traditional way of life and an up
> and coming China. Surrounded by mountains, it's located on a high
> plateau.
>
> The new part of the city is under construction, supported by the
> government and built government style with miles of huge high rise
> buildings with an architectural nod to Tibet. Mostly, the buildings
> are a lot of uninviting concrete edifices that are built to house
> nomads, the thousands of people expected to move here, a large
> military,  educational institutions, hospitals and all kinds of
> businesses. In every corner there is construction. Many buildings are
> empty and most are still being built. There is not yet one ounce of
> charm.The old town is something quite different with its Tibetan
> flavor, small streets, incredible Dali Lama (No. 4- 1600s) monestary
> designed to replicate the Llasa one, charming architecture and
> interesting restaurants and shops.
>
> Between the two there are yaks grazing, pigs rutting, horses galloping
> and cows striped in white and black. People are in the midst of
> blending their traditional farm life with a new suburban life style.
> Some folks go to the office while others climb aboard their carts and
> head for the fields. We are staying with a family that cooks both on
> an open wood fueled fire pit and on a gas stove. They have pigs and
> chickens in their barn and a computer in their home office. They speak
> Tibetan/Chinese and watch cartoons and soaps on a big screen t.v.
> They live in a household of four generations with each successive
> generation reaching toward more modern expectations with an eye toward
> the future and their back to the past.
>
> We are here to see the important efforts of our cousin Arthur Holcombe
> for Tibetan Poverty Alleviation Foundation: teaching people the
> craftsf their cultures  and business for sustainability- an amazing
> challenge indeed.     His crew have treated us royally to Tibetan
> culture, hospitality, and delectable eats.
> We got to stay in a homestay of one of the now-wealthy farmers, lost
> a bit in the translation!We had a wonderful trek into the mountains to
> 13000 feet to find yaks , views, and fall colors-reminding us of home.
>
> Now, we leave for points south east- Guilin and Yangshuo and the Li
> River. We got our first sight of Karsts last night and then lots
> today. We explored caves, climbed karsts to pagodas, and walked
> gardens until our feet were tired. So much to tell. Till next time!
>
> Love Carolyn (Carrie), Joanie, Larry, and Bob
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