China stories- inserted after the fact... Oct 21 and 18!

 October 21, 2013

Dear Friends and Family,  Catch up! Now that we are home, here are inserts! Sorry!

We are still in China, without access to our Blog page, as per Government edict for no Facebook, blogs, etc. 

Arriving in Guilin by a short flight from Shangri La to Kunming and another short flight to our destination, we were met by our guide, Lilly (really Li Li- beautiful river) for another adventure. We were met by moonlight and startling rising karsts out of nowhere surrounding us as we made our way into the city lights and bustle. Trees, rivers, and waterways twisted all about.  Guilin was where we, with the masses, visited caves (as only the Chinese can do, there was a sound and light show about the history of the world told through mythical creatures that roared loudly... all projected on the ceiling of the cave's largest room) and karsts, temples and footpaths up hillsides. By night, we treated our feet to nibbling fish, drank strong dark German beer in an Irish Pub, ate Chinese “delectables” and “indecipherables” along the way, listened to battles of live music, and danced in the streets to everyone’s surprise and applause. 

Our boat trip down the Li River between Guilin and Yangshuo was unforgettable. The karst hills are just as beautiful and amazing as the master Chinese artists have depicted them on the scrolls we've seen in museums. These limestone mountains reach for the sky straight up from the river valley in nearly vertical rounded high mounds mostly covered with vegetation and often having large caves within.  While we four thoroughly enjoyed the scenery, some Chinese tourists aboard the river boat were primarily along for the delicious lunch (like swarming bees), the card games, and the opportunity to gaze into their I-phones. They also loved taking snapshots of each other and of the 4 peculiar Americans.  We, too, were picture snappers as we “oohed and ahhed” at every turn in the river and will be able to put anyone to sleep who shows the least bit of interest in viewing our photos.
 
Once in Yangshuo, we spent an evening amongst throngs of tourists, most but not all of whom are Chinese.  We ate street food before heading off to a spectacular show called "Impression Liu Sanjie."  Zhang Yimao ( think opening and closing  2008 Olympic ceremonies) produced a show that takes place with a backdrop of 6 karst moonlit mountains and a lake with bamboo fishing rafts as the stage. With most incredible light and sound effects, the 600 performers tell, sing, and dance the legend about Liu Sanjie. Telling about it does not do justice to what we saw and will never forget.

We biked, for a day, along the River, once more admiring the karst formations, eating local food such as beer fish at an outdoor restaurant in a farming village, and stopping along the way to see a 1500 year old banyan tree that had a monstrous trunk and many enormous branches. Like the hordes of tourists, we floated on the river aboard a traditional bamboo fishing raft, relaxing as we were poled along (think simplified/fishing Venetian gondola).

Now off to Guangchou- more south and east…heading closer to all of you.  We would love to hear about you… so send us news via email.

Love,

Carolyn, Joanie, Larry, and Bob

October 18, 2013

Hello Family and Friends,
> Sorry, no blog access in China to the www.joanholcombe.blogspot.com, along with Facebook! So here is an email for a few  if you so wish! Seems that China is afraid of Facebook and Blogs... we are clearly suspect of overthrowing the government here! So, if you are so inclined, here is our latest blog by email. Please ignore if you are not following our treks.
>
> We have come to China, with wonderful food, new challenges, and a
> whole different existence here than in Nepal. Clear signs of hughly
> strong economy, the roads, cities, clothes, hotels, food, and
> everything else is of a very different world.
> Kunming our first stop - brief- to fly to Li Jiang- a lovely restored
> old town with good tourist fun. Very few caucasions to be seen....
> Then off to ShangriLa, a town showing signs of the Chinese trying to
> make Tibet the new tourist destination with a ways to go. We fear the
> changes will erode the culture for ever, but "progress" will give
> wealth to many farmers and nomads. Hmmmm.
> Shangri'La is an astounding mix of a traditional way of life and an up
> and coming China. Surrounded by mountains, it's located on a high
> plateau.
>
> The new part of the city is under construction, supported by the
> government and built government style with miles of huge high rise
> buildings with an architectural nod to Tibet. Mostly, the buildings
> are a lot of uninviting concrete edifices that are built to house
> nomads, the thousands of people expected to move here, a large
> military,  educational institutions, hospitals and all kinds of
> businesses. In every corner there is construction. Many buildings are
> empty and most are still being built. There is not yet one ounce of
> charm.The old town is something quite different with its Tibetan
> flavor, small streets, incredible Dali Lama (No. 4- 1600s) monestary
> designed to replicate the Llasa one, charming architecture and
> interesting restaurants and shops.
>
> Between the two there are yaks grazing, pigs rutting, horses galloping
> and cows striped in white and black. People are in the midst of
> blending their traditional farm life with a new suburban life style.
> Some folks go to the office while others climb aboard their carts and
> head for the fields. We are staying with a family that cooks both on
> an open wood fueled fire pit and on a gas stove. They have pigs and
> chickens in their barn and a computer in their home office. They speak
> Tibetan/Chinese and watch cartoons and soaps on a big screen t.v.
> They live in a household of four generations with each successive
> generation reaching toward more modern expectations with an eye toward
> the future and their back to the past.
>
> We are here to see the important efforts of our cousin Arthur Holcombe
> for Tibetan Poverty Alleviation Foundation: teaching people the
> craftsf their cultures  and business for sustainability- an amazing
> challenge indeed.     His crew have treated us royally to Tibetan
> culture, hospitality, and delectable eats.
> We got to stay in a homestay of one of the now-wealthy farmers, lost
> a bit in the translation!We had a wonderful trek into the mountains to
> 13000 feet to find yaks , views, and fall colors-reminding us of home.
>
> Now, we leave for points south east- Guilin and Yangshuo and the Li
> River. We got our first sight of Karsts last night and then lots
> today. We explored caves, climbed karsts to pagodas, and walked
> gardens until our feet were tired. So much to tell. Till next time!
>
> Love Carolyn (Carrie), Joanie, Larry, and Bob
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Last Stop... Hong Kong and surrounding islands

Dear Family and Friends,

We arrived here Friday (your Thursday) where the two couples (J-B and C-L) waved good-bye at the train station at Kowloon just across the bay from Hong Kong island, with different sleeping plans for the next two days. C and L headed for Central City (Wan Choi, to be exact)  and J and B for Bob's friends'  Jonathan and Louisa, apartment on the Lantau Island.This is our transition place, a blend of  Asian and Western ways.

Honk Kong is amazing- lights, tall buildings, glorious food and enough shopping for the crazed!. Together and apart, we found many different aspects of this sea of islands and cultures and possibilities.
 Bob and Joanie, are staying   in a 60 floor (tiny) high rise apartment... yikes... viewing one of the many harbors. Yesterday, they biked on this island for seven hours in remote spaces- no cars or houses for long distances and steep hills . Who knew, so close to Hong Kong!?? Carolyn and Larry culture-vultured in museums , concert halls, and outdoor light shows.  Saturday and Sunday, we joined  together for city going; We explored markets,  many ferry rides, escalators, tram ride up Victoria Peak and hiked down, explored parks, antique shops, mushroom-seaweed -fungus markets, and so much more. This is a city of lights and waterways and colliding images from all of Southeast Asia and around the  world.

Now, we come home. See you all soon. Our 24 hours of travel will cross many time zones and worlds.
Forgive us if we don't speak the language!
Love, The Bob-a-Longs!  J, C, L, J

Big City… China-style!

October 24, 2013

Dear Family and Friends,

Big City…  China-style!

Guangzhou in the Canton Province - our Canton Ave connection-Carolyn’s home turf- a city of modern mixed with old world. Narrow alleys are littered with markets selling strange fish, flowers, herbs, trinkets, meat cuts of all sizes and shapes, and stool-sitting, miniscule lunch dives. From one to the other, we would cross over bridges with glorious blooms \to the wide tree-lined avenues clogged with traffic. Tall ultra-glass skyscrapers and high-heeled “fashionettes” grabbed our attention.  We made our way around the city via the sparkling new efficient metro, experiencing both worlds: old tombs, temples, parks, and art in addition to markets, rivers. We frequented a variety of restaurants where we braved all kinds of mystery dishes. In the early morning, the city teems with people of all ages, busy at group dancing, tai chi, and singing in the parks. By mid day, the throng commute to work, shop, and construct new buildings, roads, parks, sport centers, and more. The new is replacing the old at a world-wind pace. In spite of all prior conceptions, the sky is actually blue here, unlike other burgeoning cities of the north.

We are most pleasantly surprised by the curious stares and friendly gestures of the local folks, as we struggle with our maps and non-existent language skills. Charades have never been so useful! We laugh along with the Chinese at our continuous confusion. Occasionally someone runs in panic rather than confront our overwhelming questions- the four of us are left standing perplexed in our tracks. We have often enjoyed their outgoing spontaneity, humor and social nature.

We are now back on the road… in fact, we are sitting in the train station, waiting for the noon train to pull up, to go to Hong Kong. We are looking forward to our last adventure. This will be posted on blogspot as well where last few adventures will be posted.

Love to all,
The Bob-A-Longs (J, C, L, B)

Annapurna trekking and life in the mountains!

October 11, 2013
Dear Friends and Family
Wow... three days of waiting in the airport for the clouds to part and let us fly to the Everest Region, was in vain. We actually took the flight to Lukla, but had to turn back at the last moment, as the clouds  closed us out. We decided to reroute and head for Annapurna the next morning. While disappointed, we were eager to make lemonade and embrace our next adventure.

The travel by car to Pokora- (a city 200 miles west of Kathmandu where we launch) was harrowing and sweat-ridden for seven nail-biting hours. The two-lane windy, steep, and traffic-jarring road (the largest east-west road of Nepal) is usurped by all ( buses, jeeps, old jalopies, goats, farmers, dogs, and all the rest of civilization) as their own private way. Constant honking, yelling, and "urging" was the norm with near disasters at every moment, it seemed.  Thank the gods (Hindu, Buddhist, etc.) for our safe arrival! We got there unscathed, where the lakeside was inviting and the Annapurna mountain range in the distance was spectacular, We decided an late afternoon bike ride was a good way to explore the city before our early  morning departure to our trekking trail head. Our 4 scavenged sets of questionable wheels wobbled us down bumpy roads through city streets and neighborhoods, finding delightful people to chat with along the way. Larry's bike decided to sever in half, followed by a taxi ride home on his own. Bob's flat tire needed air along the way as  we wove our way back to our abode for a last night of town life.

The trekking into the Annapurna region led us up thousands of stone steps to our 11,000 foot perch where we had glorious views of the range. While we were disappointed not to put our feet on snow and glacier, we were pleased to be in the mountains. Along the way, we were assaulted by thousands of goats (and herders ) heading down from the Mustang region to the markets for the Dossain Hindu holiday, donkeys carrying goods from village to village, farmers taking in the rice harvest, craft sellers hawking their wares, friendly trekkers from around the world, and welcome greetings  (Namastes)  from porters and guides up and down. Larry had knee problems, and had to succumb to horse ride up the second day and a slow trek down with a porter without us. We met him several days later- we were glad to be reunited! Our guide, Phurwa Sherpa and porter, Nima Sherpa (an ethnic group sharing the name) were good company and quite entertaining, with songs, tree climbing, and water fall leaping,  to keep us smiling. We were in good hands.

         



Now, back in Kathmandu for our last Nepalese night before heading for China, we scurry to do heaps of laundry, shave scratchy beards, and eat our last Dal Bat dinner, before heading to China. What a time it has been.
 Love,
Carolyn, Bob, Larry, and Joanie

Waiting for Godot... or monsoons to clear!

Wow! Three days waiting for weather to clear to get to the Everest area! May have to try another area as planes cannot fly. Kathmandu airport is not a lovely place to hang out! (see pics below of days in Kathmandu with our foursome.

Bob loving every moment!

Aesetics at Pashupati Nath temple watching us!

Which symbol do you go for?

Waiting endlessly in the airport for escape to Everest Region!

Our quiet neighborhood in Thamel, Kathmandu!

Temples abound.... we may get religion yet??

Our jewels being made on New Road market street.

Pictures of Koshidekha-Home and School

In our kurta Salwal dress

Our Shree Ram faculty on our last farewell

Rajman and Maya making brew at home

Maya carrying harvest and Ama (mother)

Our down town Koshidekha

Our valley below

Shree Ram Secondary School

Children help with harvest very day

Mothers get ready to dance for Teez

Ama helps to cook

Maya brings home water every day from local well

Making corn brew

Our local store

The corn harvest for the year

Our neighbor's front yard

The guys get a solid greeting upon arrival

Rajman under the tree

Our critters- water buffalo, goats, and rooster

Goods at our store

Sun Kosi river below with rice fields

So much to share and so many stories! But the good is in the people and the learning.

Kathmandu and beyond!!!

Greetings Friends and Family,
We are a fousome! The men joined the women with a bit of fanfare- men greeted with flowers and traditional Nepali silk scarves (almost silk...) and lots of hugs. Our days here in this buzzing city have been full, with a health camp in Bhaktapur, lots of temple walks and street browsing.
Now we are in waiting for sufficiently good weather for our airplane to fly to the Everest region (one day in airport sprawled upon the floor and baggage with 500 of our closest friends ...we hope to get to the mountains tomorrow. Another day in the airport sprawled on the floor in the midst of luggage and a cast of hundreds of disappointed climbers and trekkers would be a drag.

Spent the unexpected extra evening at the holiest Hindu temple where monkeys, cows, holy men, praying women, hawkers and tourists mingled as funeral cremation pyres were lit and the dead were sent on to their next life. The city is chaotic with motorcycles, vehicles and people vying for space and creating gridlock. We are not sure there is space for one more person in this city. We are ready to breathe fresh air, walk in the mountains and hear the birds sing.

We are sorry for lack of pictures accompanying this blog- while we have over 1000 each... electricity and such have made it more of a challenge. Also the overload factor. We will get there! 
Love to all. J, C, L, and B

Leaving to trek in the Everest region

Hello Friends and Family,
We arrived safely in Kathmandu, joined by our men... and have explored Thamel area thoroughly for all the trinkets and such that can squeeze into our overstuffed bags for our loved ones (hope you were expecting such... dear family...). We have explored deep pockets of commerce (skinny streets loaded and lined with shops and eager sellers telling us we will be their good luck if only we will buy- name our price) and temples loaded with prayer wheels and symbols and birds and monkeys and more). Our eating has been luscious (after a month of dal-baat).
Tomorrow, early we head for Lukla by air for the Everest region, to begin our 8-day trek. For the next while we are out of range... so we will write to you when we return!

Cheers- hope for good weather and good muscles.
J, C, B and L

Leaving Koshidekha-and next chapter...

September 28, 2013

Dear Friends and Family,

Last day- a day full of profoundly deep heart-felt emotion. Five AM was bitter sweet as we woke up to get ready for the day of good-byes and of celebration for the new school building donated by the Swiss for the children of Koshidekha. Saying farewell to Rajman and Maya was the hardest and brought on our first bout of tears. After dragging our gear up the mountain to the school, we found intense preparations under way, as teachers and volunteers had been working for days and into the night.  The Swiss arrived in their hiking clothes to a flanking of 500 children lined up for a long stretch through the tiny town, in uniform. The procession included ancient Tamang drumming and dancing, teachers dressed in Saris and dress clothes, and all with flower petals to shower the guests. In spite of the pomp and formalities, stray dogs and chickens settled in amongst the revelers.  Five hours of speeches in three languages (Nepali, German, and fractional English), traditional dances, and songs taught by yours truly to each grade 1-7, we ate a feast cooked by teachers throughout the preceding night. The final song, We Shall Overcome, was the culminating moment for us, as 45 children sang their hearts out for us, as we all dreamed of a good future for the people of Koshidekha. After  tearful good-byes and many Pheri Betaula’s (“see you agains”) we piled into the 4-wheel drive jeep to bounce down the mountain road toward Kathmandu.

On our first night of re-entry with our hosts, Dr. and Mrs. Shakar included our first hot water soaking shower in a month and electric light (as opposed to head lamps and flashlights). The cooking was actually on a stove. And the sit-down toilet felt good under us!!! We awoke, however at 4am (damn) to the cacophony  of thousands of rooster cock-adoodle-doos and barking dogs. Welcome to the city! We have found our hotel for the next few nights, before heading for the Everest Mountain area. Tomorrow we volunteer for a medical health camp in Baktapur, joining our Nepal Children’s Center hosts and the Swiss group who funded the new Koshidekha school building.

Stay tuned for our next adventure surely upon the horizon…

C and J

Home in Koshidekha, Nepal

September 21, 2013

Dear Family and Friends,

Our last week begins.  Before we leave, here is a bit more about life in our neighborhood. Mr. Rogers would have been proudly wearing his cardigan sweater after seeing our friendly neighbors.

Ladders in every house lead to the upper floors. The 3^rd floor here is for cornstalk drying. There are three multipurpose bedrooms on the second floor used for everything from living room, guest sitting, TV and computer, storage of clothing and food and tools, as we use our attics or basements. We both share a room just big enough for two wooden beds covered by a quilt serving as a mattress. We manage to sleep soundly most every night! Our early-to-bed and early-to-rise schedules, due to our host’s work / farm chore needs and electric “load shedding” has taken on new meaning! Our evening trips to the outhouse are a challenge; with trusty headlamps secured to our noggins, we have managed to make many a nighttime foray without falling down the ladder.

As we enter our last week, the school is in a frenzy over the upcoming dedication for the new high school building donated by two Swiss corporations. With every student preparing for a dancing or singing performance of some kind (Nepalese and Tamang folk dances, American folk songs taught by yours- truly), speeches, banners, signs, food, gifts, etc. are in the making. We have managed to jumpstart a trash clean-up afternoon all around the building with all the students and faculty participating, something never tried before!

It is Saturday washing and chore day, what everyone does on his or her one day off from school or work. We, however, are planning a hike around our foothill mountains after we have done our own laundry and swept the mud floor. Again, no electricity today- this time all day -to subsidize city power in great demand, we are told.  This epistle will go when we can load and send- electricity is a precious gift when we can access internet!

 The men arrive in Kathmandu on the 28th. We will be oh-so glad to see them.

Love, C and J

 

 

September 20, 2013

We awoke this morning at 4:40 am to the pungent fragrance of water buffalo dung mixed with the ripening guava fruit, both competing with the early cooking fire smoke, all within 20 feet of our bedroom window. Our window remains wide open to the elements- no screens in spite of the deafening chirps of cicadas and birds, and the eager hoard of flying critters (bugs) just waiting for a light bulb to illuminate. There is the sound of a single motor bike each morning heading for the milk collection shed down the path. Our day has begun.

We have not really described our school activities- the amazing daily experiences with 500 children and 17 teachers. After our 9AM “lunch” (Kanna) at home with Rajman (already been to school and back and hauled water jugs from the local well ) and prepared by Maya, we put on our walking shoes (all others in their flip flops) to make the trek up the ¾ mile rugged path.  We are usually joined by 20 plus children for the hike up to school where we mop off our soaked brows and bodies to begin our day. We are greeted all along the way and again at the school by dozens of “Namastes”,  “good mornings” and warm smiles.  At 10:00 am the gong is heard and all children (K-10) gather on the new patio for the daily morning assembly- rows of students in front of the brand new building built by the Swiss donors and by Health Care Nepal (our friend Jack Starmer and NGO). With students leading the troops, students stand at attention, sing the Nepalese anthem with bowed heads, answer a trivia question of the day, and march out to drums to their respective classrooms. We gather our box of materials and head for our first class. Our role began and emerged: teachers of English and mentors or teachers.  We seem to be a hit! In that these teachers have had little training- few have been to college or university and most began right out of high school- we are bringing a very new view of education. Their traditional model has been one of rote recitation, memorization, and chanting facts and readings. This school, thanks to the influences of the a few outside visitors/volunteers brought in by Nepal Children’ Aid Center and Health Care Nepal, slowly becomes a model school for the area, with English texts and instruction (though extremely limited), interactive classrooms, and Kindergarten. We, however, are the first teachers to spend a concentrated amount of time in the classrooms and with the teachers to model, coach, instruct, and guide teaching in a western style. We are doing the first teacher workshop they have ever had early next week, complete with handouts and interactive learning strategies for them to see in action. We are thrilled with the eager and open reception from teachers, with continual invites to additional classrooms beyond our planned 3rd-5^th grades. It has been wonderfully rewarding; we are a good team, sharing like styles of teaching and philosophy, and know each other well. Last night our home stay hosts, Rajman and Maya, extended a most generous invitation to return to his home and school, extolling our virtues and contributions. We are glowing.

 

Teachers and Principal earn nearly nothing- in fact, so little none qualify to pay taxes at the minimum wage of $5000 per year. Two teachers are volunteers (no pay) and several are earning the equivalent of less than $700 per year. Most around $4000 per year, we are understanding. Materials are scarce. There is one internet-connected computer and printer in school and the printer acts as the only copy machine. The generous support of outside donors has brought a computer lab (non-internet) of 15 computers to the school- an amazing luxury for these parts.  Carolyn and I scrounge for a pencil and paper to make notes and materials. It took ten minutes to find a pair of scissors. This is miracle in the making, yet has so far to go.

Nepal has more hydro power resources than most countries in the world, yet we experience 50 hours of  “load shedding” (no power)  per week. As we rarely know the schedule of shutoffs,  we never know when we will be in the dark. The country is too poor to harness its resources both,  for itself or for export. No electric power for up to seven hours per day means we often are in the dark; in places where they are in place, one cannot use any  electric appliances or heating system, etc. TV is limited. It is hard for the country to move into the 21^st century with any muscle.

 

On the other side of things, we continue to experience our neighborhood in new ways. Our neighborhood  has moved on from corn crop harvesting and bean planting to rice or corn wine making for the upcoming holiday, Dashain. One neighbor weaves intricate wool rugs for sale (wool must be imported as there are no sheep here), while her husband works in Malaysia and returns every couple of years. This is pretty typical- women stay to farm and raise children while the men leave for work and return when they can. Maya and Rajman are Tamang, complete with their own traditional dress and unique language. Learning Nepalese reading and writing has been a challenge for many. English is a  something for the new generation.

So much more to tell – coming soon. Love to all the outside world, if you are still there???

J and C

Life with mountain women farmers

September 15, 2013

Dear Family and Friends,

This morning brought new meaning to the world of high finance. At 7AM we headed down the path to the next hamlet where Rajman opened the “bank” for business for the entire local community. Sitting upon a woven mat, on the front step of a mud brick house next to the town well, he opened his financial borrowing –lending ledger and began to collect cash. Money appeared from under their cloth belts. Careful accounting was kept for thirty customers (25 ladies, 5 men) while they all watched the individual transactions take place.

Their small children were fascinated by our gray hairs and western garb. They fed us penny candy, sang us songs, and demonstrated their Buddhist yoga positions, while mothers and grandmothers banked and looked on. Others bathed under the well tap and did laundry – all this in the “bank lobby.”

On the way to and from the early morning trek, the clouds lifted and we were treated to our first panorama of the snow-capped Himalayas.  It was surreal.

We are constantly bombarded by the contrasting ways of life: modern century cell phones complete with Facebook in the midst of mud houses, primitive farming methods, outside and inside cooking fire pits, outhouses, etc.

Saturday, our one day of rest, we took a long hike- 3000 ft. elevation drop- into the valley to seek water where we found the beautiful river, doffed all clothing, and submerged blissfully.

Back to school on Sunday morning early for the first day of our six-day workweek.

The sickle is ever present and ever handy....Maya opened the plastic Tang bag with it.  We put ourselves in the dark when we undress to avoid having to look at our big and increasingly fat bodies.  We are on an all starch diet complete with corn, potatoes, rice, bread and muffins three meals a day!!!!

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xoxox,

J and C